The Orangery, where we are sitting, looks over the formal gardens where a fountain plays in the early afternoon sunshine. Beyond is a terrace before the ground plunges sharply down into the Derbyshire dale called Water-cum-Jolly.

Across the rushing River Wye is Putwell Hill, known to the locals as Putty Hill, where, over prawn cocktail, we watch walkers trudging along one of the three or four parallel footpaths.

Regular readers will know that this page collects chews with a view.
There's the view from the restaurant at the back of the Old Bowling Green at Bradwell; from the Lathkil Hotel over Lathkill Dale, twinkling with lights at night; down the lawn from The Maynard at Grindleford; and, just along from Cressbrook, the view if you get the right table at the Monsal Head Hotel.

We're here for Sunday lunch and, what's more, we've the 50-seater restaurant all to ourselves.

Cressbrook Hall, built circa 1830, has been the home of Bobby Hull-Bailey, her husband Len and their seven children for almost 30 years. "Not enough television," says Bobby wickedly.

You may know it as a weddings, functions and conference venue (family reunions a speciality), at the centre of a network of B&B rooms and self-catering cottages.

"It's first and foremost a family home," says Bobby, although they have to make the place pay for itself.

They've just started Sunday lunches (as well as evening meals on Wednesdays and Thursdays) and they're doing well. It's all quiet when we call because the previous day's wedding party had switched from lunch to brunch.

For me, Sunday lunch is part of a package: the drive out, a meal in fine surroundings, a stroll afterwards and then back home.

The hall (there's only a very small sign) is a sharp turn off the little Cressbrook to Monsal Road, below Litton.

We arrive early at Cressbrook to be met by Cyril the dog who shows us round the gardens until a waitress sees us and checks we have not got lost.

We order in the flagstoned bar. Three courses cost £17.50 and the menu looks comfy and easygoing, which it is.

We start with a rather fine ham hock terrine, a nice, thick, moist, tasty slice with "our piccalilli" and prawn cocktail.

This comes in a cocktail glass with plenty of prawns, mayonnaise and posh leaves, not the awful Iceberg, small enough to not need shredding. It may be retro but it can still be a pleasure to eat.

The chef here is Simon Hollings, who cooked for us at East Lodge, Rowsley, back in 1997 (braised rabbit) and again at the old Hathersage Inn in 1999 (steamed rabbit pudding). Sadly, rabbit is not on the menu today.

Our waitress who brings out the food wears old fashioned white gloves. Haven't seen those for some time. She keeps us entertained. She had thought that Cressbrook Hall would be "a wedding factory. But every wedding is different."

Main courses are serviceable, with a choice of roast pork or roast beef. I imagine my beef has been reheated but it's tasty enough and the "beef gravy" tastes as if it is.

My wife's salmon fillet comes with a bright orange thermidor sauce although there's more taste of cheese in the cauliflower cheese.

Sweets are relaxed. A lemon miroir has a citrus moussey filling which works well with a slice of candied orange. Bread and butter pudding is pleasant.

Do we want to move for coffee (£5 a cafetiere)? No, we would lose the view.

After the meal we stroll back through the gardens, this time without Cyril, and admire the view one more time.

Well worth a booking for the all-round experience.

With coffees, two glasses of wine and pre-dinner drinks we paid £51.

READ MORE
Your letters.
Today's features.
Latest sport.
Main news index.